Nudging the Muranów district from its culinary coma is Joseph’s, a relaxed restaurant that’s spacious and smooth on the eye. A familiar sighting on Polish TV, the Botswanan-born Joseph Seeletso demonstrates a new found maturity with food that’s tailor-made for modern times: “I’ve grown up a lot,” says the chef, “and you can tell that by my menu – it’s more minimalistic now and there’s a few Nordic influences in there as well.” Regardless, charateristic ‘exotic twists’ are not uncommon, making dining here an often unique and unusual experience.
On the occasion of the Insider’s visit, that means a mushroom cappuccino that’s deep, earthy and everything you want on a chilly Warsaw day.
In contrast, the tuna tartar is light, fresh and full of zingy pops: a sprinkle of beetroot and kiwi gives it a lively lift that’s quite unexpected.
For mains, beef tenderloin with salsify and lentils – a great piece of meat complete with a crunchy char.
But the star of the show, that’s guinea fowl breast with leek and a creamy rissotto. The one negative comment would be portion size: too big, meaning dessert doesn’t get a try-out. It will next time though, and the fact that a return visit is already in the pipeline says much about Joseph’s.
Joseph’s Bistro & Wine
ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl
(Words & Photos: AW)